That JJ Martin is provided with an extra supply of energy coming from God knows where is a fact proved with ample evidence. On a day so hot it made the asphalt melt on streets, with people panting for air, she looked fresh as a May rose, clad in one of her breezy caftans and … Read more
If you’re feeling a slight sense of deja vu, that’s understandable. Yes, the Alexander McQueen fall 2022 menswear lookbook did drop just five days ago, and yes, the spring 2023 lookbook is out today. Over the past few pandemic years, even the best of us have felt like time has collapsed in on itself, but … Read more
At a Zoom appointment, Christelle Kocher discussed her practical approach to Koché’s resort collection. “It’s a chance to rework things which make the identity of the brand, the everyday uniform of jeans, knitwear… but give them a sense of poetry,” she explained. A puzzling statement. Was the poetry in the signature feathers, this time ostrich, … Read more
Instant vacation is what Johanna Ortiz’s palm-embellished looks seem to promise. The designer offers different ways to arrive at your destination by applying the motif to a variety of silhouettes (long or short, fitted or caftan), using responsible materials of different weights, featuring all manner of hand embellishments, including appliqué, beading, and embroidery. Knits with … Read more
Zuhair Murad’s colorful, bohemian-inflected resort collection takes its cues from unbridled nature, luminous flora, and idyllic landscapes, with selected borrowings from two abstract artists: Virginia Jaramillo, an American-born painter of Mexican heritage, and the Italian painter Carla Accardi. Bending those elements to his will, the designer offered a broad collection focused on high color and … Read more
As a new mother, Sandra Sandor says she has been experiencing “strong sensations and experiences in relation to my body” and learning “what it’s capable of and how it’s changing and adapting.” Wanting to explore that idea materially, she landed on the theme of “the beauty of imperfection,” or, as the press release states, “flaws.” … Read more
Charles de Vilmorin is feeling more at home at Rochas. For resort, he used currents from the winter collection to move the house forward, offering up “a very aquatic, colorful universe” while also evoking ideas about the love story between the house’s founder, Marcel Rochas, and his wife, Hélène, a proto-influencer who took over the … Read more
We were in Paris, at a presentation space near the Atlas metro, for this preface to a new geographical chapter in the progress of Samuel Ross and A-Cold-Wall. Ross, who prior to the pandemic had been showing Italian made collections in Milan, had kept news of the two presentations and two raves he threw here … Read more
While we quickly forgot most of the valuable lessons we told ourselves the pandemic had taught us, it does seem to have affected one aspect of our lives: our approach to clothes shopping. Around the shows this month in Paris, there was a noticeable difference in the way women and men dress. Somehow our choices … Read more
Lanvin is restructuring its direction. Starting with the pre-collection you see in these pictures, the house is rethinking its strategy for products across categories and building a comprehensive wardrobe for the contemporary woman and man. That sort of marketing jargon isn’t what you’d expect from a designer, and sure enough, Creative Director Bruno Sialelli wasn’t … Read more