Simple summer pleasures were on Rosie Assoulin’s mind this season. The two most prominent references are bathing suits worn with sarongs and beach town awnings. They bridge the inherent disconnect of a resort season between functional winter clothing and escapist vacation wear. Scalloped hems and knotted skirts work for both. But while the inspirations are … Read more
That JJ Martin is provided with an extra supply of energy coming from God knows where is a fact proved with ample evidence. On a day so hot it made the asphalt melt on streets, with people panting for air, she looked fresh as a May rose, clad in one of her breezy caftans and … Read more
At a Zoom appointment, Christelle Kocher discussed her practical approach to Koché’s resort collection. “It’s a chance to rework things which make the identity of the brand, the everyday uniform of jeans, knitwear… but give them a sense of poetry,” she explained. A puzzling statement. Was the poetry in the signature feathers, this time ostrich, … Read more
Instant vacation is what Johanna Ortiz’s palm-embellished looks seem to promise. The designer offers different ways to arrive at your destination by applying the motif to a variety of silhouettes (long or short, fitted or caftan), using responsible materials of different weights, featuring all manner of hand embellishments, including appliqué, beading, and embroidery. Knits with … Read more
Zuhair Murad’s colorful, bohemian-inflected resort collection takes its cues from unbridled nature, luminous flora, and idyllic landscapes, with selected borrowings from two abstract artists: Virginia Jaramillo, an American-born painter of Mexican heritage, and the Italian painter Carla Accardi. Bending those elements to his will, the designer offered a broad collection focused on high color and … Read more
As a new mother, Sandra Sandor says she has been experiencing “strong sensations and experiences in relation to my body” and learning “what it’s capable of and how it’s changing and adapting.” Wanting to explore that idea materially, she landed on the theme of “the beauty of imperfection,” or, as the press release states, “flaws.” … Read more
Charles de Vilmorin is feeling more at home at Rochas. For resort, he used currents from the winter collection to move the house forward, offering up “a very aquatic, colorful universe” while also evoking ideas about the love story between the house’s founder, Marcel Rochas, and his wife, Hélène, a proto-influencer who took over the … Read more
Lanvin is restructuring its direction. Starting with the pre-collection you see in these pictures, the house is rethinking its strategy for products across categories and building a comprehensive wardrobe for the contemporary woman and man. That sort of marketing jargon isn’t what you’d expect from a designer, and sure enough, Creative Director Bruno Sialelli wasn’t … Read more
It was 8:34 in the gardens of Lisbon’s Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation this evening when the colorful parakeets that had been watching from the treetops suddenly stirred, shrieking into the sky. They had sensed the beginnings of a gust of Atlantic wind that ruffled the carefully set plumage of the curated pandemonium of parakeets watching below—a … Read more
And then there’s the very Ukrainian touch: fluffy, web-fine mohair sweaters, knitted in a patchwork of traditional doily patterns. “These are what we make to hang on Christmas trees. I was thinking about the new year.” The hope implicit in all of this is touching, and indomitable. The backstory of how it came about is … Read more