It’s fun to dive into the details of a Chanel collection. The Métiers d’art show in particular showcases the artisans and factories who create the label’s pleats, tweeds, embroidery, and more. While the pre-fall 2022 show was shown first last December in Paris, the House staged a replica show in Florence on Tuesday and took some guests around to see some of the factories Chanel employs to celebrate the launch of the collection. In attendance was Nadia Gohar, artist and co-founder of the newly launched eponymous housewares line that sells such wonderful frivolities as a satin baguette bag and “lace bonnet for bonbons.”
Of course an artist would appreciate the finer details of a Chanel collection. Gohar points out for Vogue the jewelry that referenced Coco Chanel’s zodiac sign, and a locket inspired by the Paris store at 31 Rue Cambon. She knows by names the factories who pleat the pleats and tie the bows, and has visited quite a few. While admiring a model backstage, she recalled her trip to Lesage, a maison in Paris known for its embroidery (it also made the colorful, jeweled buttons on a navy jacket in the show). Gohar also had the experience of seeing how each feather was “cut, colored, and assembled,” at Maison Lemarié a few years ago, which she appreciated on a black pantsuit that “swayed down the runway.”
Below, Gohar extends some of that knowledge to us and walks us through some of her favorite details from the Chanel métiers d’arts replica show, as well as the rest of her time in Florence.